Château Cheval Blanc 2023

One of the most profound wines of the vintage is the 2023 Cheval Blanc, a striking wine that stands out for its strong sense of identity and seamless integration at such an early stage in its life. Wafting from the glass with notes of mulberries, lilac, dark fruits, iris root and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless, with a gourmand core of cool, vibrant fruit that entirely conceals its sweet structuring tannins, concluding with a long, perfumed finish. It's a blend of 52% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, drawing on fully 46 of the blocks that make up Cheval Blanc, and it attained 13.8% alcohol. William Kelley

This is so cabernet, with blackcurrants, blackberries, crushed stone, graphite and lead pencil. Full-bodied with tight, chewy tannins that remain fine yet energetic. Winemaker Pierre-Olivier Clouet says this wine is a benchmark for Cheval Blanc. Reminds me of the great 1983. 13.8% alcohol. 52% merlot, 46% cabernet franc and 2% cabernet sauvignon.

Black and crimson colour. Intense and magical nose, the best of the entire 2023 campaign. Notes of raspberry, vanilla, liquorice and tar. It's the one I spent 10 minutes on, complex, beautiful and rare. Meticulously fat from the moment it enters the mouth, with a dreamy texture and an unfolding quality where everything slides and progresses slowly to gradually become deep in the persistence, invaded by the flavour of a very great complex length. Once again, the best. Blend: 52% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Alcohol content: 13°8 - pH: 3.8. Yield: 40 hl/ha. Selection: 75% of production.

52% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc, 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cheval Blanc is matured 100% in new barrels (which will later be used to mature Petit Cheval). Cheval's bouquet is full of depth and homogeneity. The ageing process is barely noticeable, but it is in the background, and its ambition is to be the support, the springboard that allows notes of elderberry, blackberry and liquorice to emerge, enhanced by hints of peony and mint. Compact, the wine gains in density and power on the palate. The tannins appear late and are characterised by their fine grain and subtle austerity, while the acidity adds temperament and structure. The power is measured and underlines the serene side of the wine. It is broad-shouldered without being opulent, powerful without being oversized and very fine without being airy. The fine bitter aftertaste brings out the floral nuances of the bouquet and lengthens the persistence. An excellent Cheval with an exceptional balance. 2032-2058.